A
* The term ‘naturally’ is used here to mean something that has been derived from a plant.
Many photo-chemicals are also made in a lab. I believe that these are usually as effective, sometimes safer and occasionally better for the planet than using the plant-derived extract.
Alpha-Arbutin: INCI: α-Αrbutin
This is derived from blueberry, cranberry & bearberry and is a natural source of hydroquinone.
Why Use It For Skincare?
It is a natural skin lightener, (Not to be confused with beta-Arbutin - sometimes just called ‘Arbutin’ which is considerably cheaper, but doesn’t have the same effect.) a-arbutin is usually in a formula to help lighten dark patches on the skin, often melasma or scarring that has darkened. It works by blocking the production of melanin but can also help prevent the darkened areas appearing. Patience is necessary as this can take two to three months to really see a difference. Melanin transfer happens deep down in the skin layers, so even after the melanin supply has been blocked, that which was already in the skin layers still has to work its way up to the surface and out. It can also effectively ‘brighten’ skin, reducing a dull appearance and any discolouration. Part of the reason for this is because a-arbutin is a good humectant, so attracts and retains moisture in the skin.
It can also reduce the damage caused by free-radicals in the skin (free radicals are unstable molecules that increase with age and can damage the skin's collagen and elastin fibres).
The Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found that the optimum concentration of alpha-arbutin for the treatment of melasma is between 1% and 3%.
And the Down-side? It will probably make skin more sensitive to UV light whilst it is on the skin, so an effective sunscreen is advised. It needs a pH6 or more to work at its optimum, so acidic formulations tend not to be recommended, as it will break down too fast to be useful. As with most skin lighteners that inhibit melatonin, it takes a few months to produce a significant difference and melasma often requires a two pronged attack.
Allantoin -INCI: Allantoin - The ester of benzoin acid.
It is derived from plants (most often, comfrey or sugar beet, chamomile, and tobacco seeds.) but like most things, it can be created synthetically.
Why Use It For Skincare?
This has keratinolytic properties, (it softens the top layer of skin). It is used to help improve moisture retention whilst being an emollient, so it helps the skin stay hydrated. We often pair it with hyaluronic acid, sodium hyaluronate and soy lecithin. It is commonly used to help reduce inflammation and improve the skin healing in cases of acne or psoriasis.
Why Use It For Haircare?
We often use it in shampoo, along with zinc oxide to reduce the risk of fungal bacteria which can cause itching and discomfort and in turn can lead to dandruff.
And the Down-side? It can be difficult to formulate with allantoin as it must be dissolved thoroughly in a precise percentage, before adding to the mix. Even a little too much will be unlikely to fully dissolve and so it will make the product gritty throughout.
AHAs INCI-Alpha-Hydroxy Acids - (Also see Beta-Hydroxy Acids and Poly Hydroxy Acids)
Why Use It For Skincare?
Those most commonly found in skincare are glycolic and lactic acids. Glycolic derives from sugar cane; Lactic acid is a substance bacteria produce during fermentation (sounds a bit yucky, but it works well), derived from: wine, bread, dairy products, and pickled food; malic acid, is derived from apples and citric acid, from…curiously enough… citrus fruit.These are effective keratolytics, these loosen and remove the skin‘s top layer. This then allows other ingredients to work deeper down than they otherwise might have, and they deliver a smooth surface feel. Using AHAs can improve the skin’s moisturisation and help remove superficial sun-damage.
Why Use It For Haircare? Glycolic acid is the one most often used in shampoos and conditioners, to improve the overall condition and particularly, moisture. They help remove dirt, without drying the hair. Lactic acid (a Poly Hydroxy Acid) can give dry hair, with a rough texture, feel softer..
And the Down-side? Removing the top layer of skin can increase its vulnerability to UV damage. It can be irritating and is known to have caused: peeling, itching, irritation, pigmentary changes and dermatitis. Depending on the formulation, AHA’s can prevent retinoids from working optimally and certain forms of Vitamin C too. Malic acid is probably safer to use on darker pigmented skin.
Aloe Vera - INCI: Aloe barbadensis leaf/ juice/ powder
The juice or gel from the aloe vera plant are used. It can be spray dried and then it will appear on an ingredients’ list as a powder.
Why Use It For Skincare? It is moisturising, soothing and to some extent anti-bacterial, anti-inflammatory. it is an especially popular choice for those with oily and sensitive skin.
And The Down-side? It rarely causes problems, but when using the fresh plant, it is important to drain the yellow liquid from the centre on each leaf before preparing to use it on skin. It tends to be relatively easy to find (or grow) and not expensive.
Amla Powder - INCI: Phyllanthus Emblica fruit extract/ Emblica officinalis Usually used in powder form - and can be described as dried Indian Gooseberry.
Why Use It For Skincare? It can be used to help fade scars, soothe burns, acne and generally brighten skin, especially when mixed with argan oil And vitamin C. It is best suited to oily skin, due to it being astringent. It has some antioxidant, free radical scavenging properties.
Why Use It For Haircare? It has been used for centuries to help improve scalp problems, including itching and scaling. It is also used to condition hair and it may even slow premature colour-loss.
And The Down-side? There are rarely problems when used at low levels, which is usually the case, but like most ingredients derived from plants, allergies are always possible, so patch-testing is recommended for people with sensitive skin or known allergies.
Amodimethicone INCI: Amodimethicone -An amino functional polydimethysiloxane - a silicone conditioning ingredient
Why Use It In Skincare? It is rarely used in skincare, but will work as a silicone, so it adds a smooth feel to a cream or lotion.
Why Use It In Haircare? It has an excellent effect on hair that tends to carry too much static and calms fly-away hair. It makes ‘frizzy’ hair softer and more manageable and can prolong the colour in colour-treated hair. It will still improve the condition of undamaged hair, but it has a noticeable beneficial effect on damaged hair. It can be more expensive than other silicones but it doesn’t tend to cause build-up and locks in moisture, so it retains body and volume which can be lost when using some alternatives.
And the Down-side? Well, it is a silicone and for people wanting to avoid them, this one will need to join the naughty list. It can cause irritation in high percentages, but it works efficiently in fairly low amounts and these are usually well tolerated.
Avocado Butter
Avocado Butter: INCI: Persea gratissima
This is a solid, green butter, smooth and quite hard.
Why Use It In Skincare? It has a good fatty acid profile which includes lecithin & phytosterols and is high in both vitamins A, D and E. Is is very moisturising and wine used in a low percent it rarely feels oily. Oleic acid helps hydrate the skin and this butter is a good emollient, so it forms a protective barrier on the skin’s surface, helping to lock in moisture and prevent dehydration.It is a soothing butter, suitable for sensitive or irritated skin. It can help aleviate inflammation, redness and itching. But it is important to find a high-quality, organic butter, free from additives.
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And the Down-side? Usually, it is well tolerated in small amounts, but it can leave a greasy feel, and be occlusive if a large amount is used. It has a distinct ‘nutty’ odour, which can be a bit cloying.
Azelaic Acid
Azelaic acid - INCI: 1,7-heptanedicarboxylic acid. A natural, saturated dicarboxylic acid.
Why Use It In Skincare? It is produced naturally by skin so it is usually well-tolerated and a very useful all-rounder. As a humectant, it will attract and retain moisture in the skin. It is also keratolytic, so will help refine the surface of the skin and is often mixed with a small percentage of salicylic acid, to reduce the appearance of large pores.
The anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties can help reduce the growth of acne-causing bacteria and prevent comedones, in acne-prone skin. It can also fade the scars left behind as it is a melanin inhibitor, so it will also help fade hyperpigmentation and melasma.
When used over a few months, it can actually reduce skin-sensitivity and the troublesome symptoms of rosacea.
And the Down-side? You may be lucky and suffer no adverse effects, which is likely when it is in a formulation at less than 15%. But…5 to 10% of users can get pruritus, erythema, dermatitis and (rarely, but worth taking note) both asthma and vitiligo can worsen.
If a product has a pH of below 4.5 or above pH6 - the effectiveness will be markedly reduced.
B
Behentrimonium chloride
Behentrimonium chloride INCI : Behentrimonium chloride
This is a QUAT and cationic emulsifier - produced from canola oil.
Why Use It In Skincare?
With an impressive 22 carbon chains, this is very conditioning - even more so than cetrimonium chloride. It leaves a silky feel on skin.
Why Use It In Haircare? For very similar reasons; it leaves hair feeling silky and reduces static. It is a safe choice, even to use on children.
And the Down-side? It tends not to smell great; it can be a bit fishy. Although it is effective when used at 1-2% in a product, when it is used at over 3% it can become irritating. It is restricted to 0.25% in any leave-on products sold in the EU.
Benzoin resin
This is a balsamic resin taken from Styrax trees. The resin is different from the chemical compound benzoin. Collecting the resin is more lucrative than cutting down the trees, so the trade is saving trees that otherwise would have been sold as timber.
Why Use It In Skincare? It is a good humectant, has antiseptic and anti-inflammatory properties, (one study found that was effective in treating Mycobacterium fortuitum). It can reduce localised swelling, itchy skin and can alleviate very dry areas, including bedsores. It has an attractive scent and can even be used as a ‘natural’ preservative.
And the Down-side?Not really any significant problems.
BHAs (beta-Hydroxy-Acids)
The most commonly used is salicylic acid.
Why Use It In Skincare? Salicylic acid is widely used and can be very helpful to rosacea and acne. It also has anti-inflammatory properties and it is an keratolytic, so will be exfoliating and help to keep pores clean from sebum. We use it with azelaic acid, for skin prone to blemishes. It is a well-known acne treatment, either with azelaic acid or more commonly in OTC form with benzoyl peroxide.
And the Down-side? If it is used with other commonly found acids, it can become very irritating.
Baobab Oil
Baobab Oil - INCI Adansonia digitata
It is an oil rich in fatty acids including omega-3 and omega-6. These acid can help moisturise skin. It is non-greasy and lightweight, so useful in formulating. It is also easily absorbed and gives a soft feel.
Why Use It In Skincare? It is especially good for dry and mature skin and it helps protect the TEWL and so it’s considered to be hydrating. It contains vitamins A, E, and C with their antioxidant properties, and this may be why it is still so popular for skin care in some African countries. It is often used to soothe irritated or inflamed skin and seems to be beneficial for conditions such as eczema and psoriasis.
Why Use It In Haircare? It is often used in haircare, but more often in serums or hair packs and less so in big-brand conditioners. It is often used by people with very long hair as it can improve elasticity and possibly strengthen hair strands. It can soften brittle hair and help combat dryness and hair that tend s to become frizzy. It can also be used to ease itchiness and relieve a dry scalp.
And the Down-side?
It has become expensive and is not always readily available.
Borage Oil
Borage Oil - INCI Borago officinalis
This is one I use regularly, I like it A LOT… It has a good fatty acid profile: rich in gamma-linolenic acid (GLA), (which really helps keep skin hydrated). It is usually well tolerated, is light and not greasy, so what’s not to like…
Why Use It In Skincare? It is nice to work with, it behaves well with other ingredients and can calm irritated and inflamed skin -and probably due to the GLA content, it is helpful to eczema, dermatitis, or psoriasis-sufferers. It can help other ingredients that improve elasticity as it supports collagen-synthesis. The vitamin A, C and E content helps prevent free-radical damage And it sees to help regulate the skin’s own oil production, whether it is over or under-producing.
Why Use It In Haircare? It can be used, and will certainly help a dry scalp, but other oils are possibly better for the cost. However it does have nourishing properties, (including the high GLA content) and this can improve hair growth and help combat hair loss.
And the Down-side? The down-side has to be the recent hike in price and the short-shelf-life. This can be extended when certain anti-oxidants are added, but it’s still less than 12 months, which can mean a lot of it is thrown away before it’s used up.
BTMS -50 INCI: Behentrimonium Methosulfate & Cetearyl Alcohol & butylene glycol.
Why Use It In Skincare? It is a conditioning emulsifier - it isn’t greasy and works well when formulating with a large percent of silicones. It is used in skincare, but more often for hair.
Why Use It In Haircare? It is drier than a lot of emulsifiers and works well with even 50% silicones (which is a LOT of silicone). It leaves a nice silky feel on hair and works well at a pH conducive to happy hair.
And the Down-side? It is cationic, so not all preservatives will work with it and some other ingredients behave differently/don’t work with a cationic emulsifier. It is also expensive.
Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate - The ester when combining of Butylene Glycol and Decanoic acid.
It is often used in preference to Propylene Glycol; it is a solvent, emollient and humectant.
Why Use It In Skincare? It works gently so it is generally good for sensitive skin. It helps stop ingredients clumping together and becoming gritty. In terms of what it might do for skin, it is a penetration enhancer, much like urea, so it can help some of the vitamins and minerals get down deeper into the skin. It is probably more useful to formulators that it is a valuable ingredient for skin.
Why Use It In Haircare? It isn’t commonly used in haircare, partly as it is an expensive ingredient, but also because there are likely to be ingredients that do the job better or as well for hair.
And the Down-side? There have been some, as yet unsubstantiated, health-scares with larger percentages.
Caprylic/capric triglyceride - a mixed tri-ester from coconut oil and glycerine
It creates a barrier on skin's surface, which helps to reduce loss of moisture. An oily texture helps thicken and provide slip, but with a non-greasy feel.
Carnauba Wax -Copernicia cerifera cera HLB12 Melts @ 80-85º Saponification value 65-95 Acid value to 15.
A very hard wax from a Brazilian palm. It is dark yellow so will darken most formulations. It reduces stickiness and in a W/O emulsion and will stabilise and modify the viscosity. It can help repair the skin barrier and TEWL.
Carbomer 940 CAS 760-50-42-5 polyvinyl carboxy polymer - the number indicates the molecular weight. (natural alternative Gum tragacanth)
One of a family of viscosity enhancers used when a clear gel is needed. It is also a suspension agent, for large, insoluble particles in the product. It will prevent separation, Retains water +original volume.
pH 2.7- 3.3 (this must be increased to 6 to form a gel.)
Cationic Polymers Polyquats - (they are polymers and Quats!)
Large molecules with multiple charge sites, which are compatible with anionic surfactants and are not irritating. Electrostaticly attracted to damaged parts of hair which pick up an negative charge. When formulated with surfactants, it will be insoluble when diluted with water (dilution deposition) for instance under a shower, so it cleverly washes out of the solution onto hair. Polyquat-10 is the most common, although it can lead to build-up if used in the same product for a long period.. It helps other conditioning ingredients like silicones work more effectively. Polyquaternuim comes as: 4,7,10 and 11, they work well even at a low percentage (under 1%).
Ceteareth-20 (20 moles of ethylene oxide.) Non-Ionic. From cetyl & stearyl alc. HLB 15.2
An Emollient and an emulsifier. It thickens when used with another alcohol or fatty acid - cetyl & stearyl alcohol from coconut or glyceryl stearate, will be exceptionally stable. It helps the absorption of other ingredients. The PEG content means there is a possibiliyy of triggering allergies in higher quantities.
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